StarLitStudio

pocket card for kids' thank yous

Today's pocket cards were designed to house thank you notes written on loose-leaf notebook paper from my three kids for the gifts they received from long-distance relatives.   These pocket cards utilize 6x6 papers.

The how-to (using Doodlebug North Pole products):

Front unit (holly print):  4-3/4 x 6 inches - scored 1/2 inch in on three sides.  If using directional paper score the top of the pattern versus the bottom.

Back unit (red polka dot):  3-3/4 x 6 inches

Flap (red polka dot with scallop edge):  3-3/4 x 2 inches - scored 1/2 inch from non-decorative edge.

Cut ribbon (I used 1-inch wide silk) to 20 inches.

Adhere scallop-edge flap to back.  You are viewing the interior of the pocket.

Stabilize ribbon in place with a very small amount of adhesive.

Flip back unit over - you are now looking at the back of what will be the pocket card.  Stitch ribbon in place with back facing you.  This way, the yucky (underside) stitching will be hidden when we attach the front unit.  

Trim ribbon between stitch lines, cutting neatly and closely to the stiching.  

If you don't feel stabilizing the ribbon by machine sewing is needed you can simply adhere ribbon in place with strong adhesive.  I like the idea of firmly stitching it in place, and having it hidden and sandwiched between the layers.

Apply Scor-Tape to scored edges of front unit and adhere.  Note how the front unit conceals the stitching that secures the ribbon.

Tiny jewelry tag (Papertrey Ink stamp) was tied around a Doodlebug Doodle Pop sticker.  Best wishes for a great weekend!

handmade envelopes & bubble envelopes

(Above is an example of a dimensional card - note the button and badge and brad.  Card is made with Basic Grey Serenade.)  Card size is 4.75 x 5 inches.

The handmade envelope is a natural extension of the handmade card.  

Today, when I create a card base I am unrestricted to the size - it is an unnecessary parameter.  I am free to create whatever unique size my idea demands, as the envelope is as custom and unique as the card.

At artisan shows in my area my handmade cards in unique sizes with handmade envelopes sell faster than those cards with machine-made envelopes and card bases conforming to standard sizes. The unique cards and envelopes are also more expensive - but customers seem to demand the unique and are willing to pay for it.

The most common line I hear from folks purchasing handmade cards is 'she won't receive two like this one!' - probably stemming from the customer remembering an occasion in which they received two identical, store-bought cards...

Bubble envelopes:  For delicate or extensively dimensional handmade cards I usually create a custom bubble-lined envelope, and the pattern I follow is from this post.  Instead of liquid glue mentioned in the post I use an ATG gun for all but the envelope closure, which speeds the process considerably.  Usually I plan to sell or save the bubble envelope and seal closed at a later date, so I use Scor-Tape at the closure and leave the protective lining in place.  If I intend to insert the card and mail immediately I simply use the ATG and seal.

Handmade envelopes:  One can try this method - not very professional in finished appearance but it works.  I personally would never use this method to house a handmade card - it is not neat or 'clean' enough in appearance.

This method works well for very large cards.

Below is how I make most of my envelopes and the method below is my preference.  Also I'll reveal my techniques, tips and tricks for speed.

I use a Martha Stewart Scoring Board with the triangle accessory in place.  

Tools/materials:  the handmade card that needs an envelope, large square punch or sharp scissors, corner rounder, envelope gum (or Scor-Tape or similar product), and cardstock of choice for envelope.

Measure finished card and add a minimum of 1/4 inch (1/8 inch each side) in height and width.  For cards with embellishments that have excessive depth - add more than 1/4 inch - like an inch more (1/2 inch each side).  For this card I created an envelope with finished measurements 6-3/4 inches in width and 4-3/4 inches in height.

For cards that are over six inches in width I generally use a 9 or 9-1/4 inch square (12-3/4 inches and 13 inches on the diagonal, respectively) of cardstock for the envelope.  Anything under six inches in width I use an 8-1/2 inch square (12 inches on the diagonal) - I'll demonstrate:

The above red cardstock square is 8-1/2 inches square, which measures 12 inches on the diagonal.  This 8.5 inch square is too small for this size card - not enough overlap.  

This 9 inch sized square for the envelope is adequate.  (note:  For speed in doing math I usually cut the square to 9-1/4 inches...giving me 13 inches to work with when doing the math, versus 12.75 inches with a 9 inch square.)  Perfect.

Now we do the math - You'll need the diagonal measurement of the square you are using for the envelope... in this case our 9 inch square is 12-3/4 inches on the diagonal.  Subtract the finished envelope width needed (not the finished card width) from the diagonal, then the finished envelope height needed (not the finished card height) from the diagonal, then divide both numbers in half.  

These two numbers are where the cardstock square is scored.

Note the triangle insert on the scoring board.  For this envelope we are scoring at 3-1/8 inch, turn cardstock square a quarter turn, then score at 4-1/8 inch.  Turn a quarter turn and score at 3-1/8 inch, turn another quarter turn and score at 4-1/8 inch.

side note:  I usually calcuate the measurement of the second score line so I score twice, turn the cardstock square, score twice then done - time saver technique.  I also jot down the envelope size and size cardstock square I used (not the finished card size) for use next time I create that particular envelope size, and accumulate these calculations on a designated notepad, and store it near my work station.

To speed things along, I use the square punch to remove the four notches formed at each side of the cardstock square.  Often for speed I bend (not fold) the cardstock square from corner to opposite corner and punch two sides at once.  

Or you could use scissors and cut out the notches, removing them.

I use a corner rounder on the top flap and the bottom flap.  The side flaps won't be seen, so I don't waste my time rounding them.  Again, I often bend (not fold) and meet the top and bottom corners and punch once through both layers - for speed.

Apply adhesive (I use an ATG) to secure the bottom panel.

Apply Envelope Gum and allow to dry if sealing at a later date.  I use a scrap length of cardstock to mask off the top flap to form a clean, crisp edge of glue.

If the envelope prohibits a legible address from being written, provide a white adhesive label panel - I cut a full 8.5 x 11 Avery sticky sheet down to eight sections each measuring 2-1/8 x 2-3/4 inches, to avoid waste, and keep them in a clear bag near my work station.  

side note:  I do not adhere these white labels to bubble envelopes - instead I clip them neatly inside the bubble envelope.  Why?  It is quite difficult to write on cardstock that has bubble wrap under it.  Let them write the address on the label, then adhere.

 

For standard, cardstock envelopes:  for added protection, I frequently create an insert using a decorative piece of cardstock cut to the same size as the card base, and on the obverse I'll adhere a 4-inch square of corrugated cardstock.   

The corrugated cardstock comes in 12x12 sheets - I prefer to cut a sheet down into nine squares each measuring four inches square, and store them near the white labels.  Zero waste for the 12x12 corrugated sheets with this method.  This additional padding will preserve the card's embellishments from postal sorters.

Hope you found this helpful, and hope you will try to incorporate some of the speed techniques I've mentioned the next time you create an envelope.  

Envelope Gum

Today's post is heavy in verbiage/how-to and light in photos.  Is about a new product to the store - Envelope Adhesive.  Envelope Gum is for those making handmade envelopes that want a traditional envelope sealing method.

With the volume of handmade envelopes I create, my time spent in making them, and the quality of paper I use, a quality adhesive is paramount.  

In the past I have been using a narrow width section of Scor-Tape and leaving the protective layer in place - this way the sender of the card can simply peel and seal when needed.  This method is functional; however, I've been seeking a traditional adhesive that I could apply, allow to dry, then re-moisten to seal at a later date.  This traditional method gives the handmade envelope a professional appearance in my opinion.

In my quest I mixed several batches of the traditional homemade version:  Elmers, vinegar and mint extract (or flavor of choice).  This adhesive failed - attempts to seal cardstock envelopes were not successful - text (computer weight) or lesser quality paper yes - quality cardstock, no.  I experimented with the proportions of the ingredients from the traditional recipe and again, the homemade mix failed my expectations for quality.  

So I sourced a manufacturered adhesive specifically designed for sealing envelopes.  Got my hands on a sample, used it, and am quite pleased.  $5.29 for 2oz/59ml bottle - enough for hundreds of envelopes.

I apply a very thin layer using a finger (easy clean up by using a baby wipe - ha).  You can use a paintbrush, but I have found using a fingertip allows more control over application and there's much less waste.  I also use a scrap strip of paper to leave a neat edge - think of using the scrap strip like using painters' tape when painting - when you want a clean edge - the scrap leaves a nice, sharp, clean edge on the envelope flap.

Allow to dry unbonded.  Dry time is typically thirty minutes.  Thicker layers require increased dry time.  Flaps can be remoistened at a later date for sealing - or - apply a thin coat of adhesive to project and bond together...although if I'm going this route I'm using my tape gun for speed.  

I hope you found this informative - making envelopes is a natural extension of the handmade card - you've created an amazing card - now go make an amazing envelope!  Thank you for stopping by!

matchbox for earrings

Today is a step-by-step of how I made the matchbox case for a pair of handmade earrings from this post - photo above is the matchbox interior for today's project.

When I learned how to gift wrap a present with wrapping paper, one thing that was drilled into me was how important it was to fold over the raw edges, and not to leave a cut edge exposed.

The same rule applies for these.   Or maybe I'm just a tad OCD.  I think you knew that already...

But folding over does make for a more finished product.  Professional.  Yeah.

October Afternoon 5 & Dime line was used for this project. 

Begin with a long strip of scrap patterned paper - this one is about 3" wide and 12" long.  We'll refer to this as 'the matchbox'.  We will adjust the 12" length later. 

Increase the 3" width to accomodate your needs.

From the bottom, score at 1/2" and again at 1-1/2".  Adhere the 1/2" flap down.  Nice & neat.

Get another strip of scrap cardstock that coordinates with the outside matchbox, and cut it down to 2-1/2" wide (this is maybe 10" long - we'll trim it later - better to be too long than too short).  We'll refer to this as 'the insert'.

Score the insert in half and fold.  Punch two holes for the earrings - and punch the holes askew - near the fold, using a 1/16" hole punch.

In my experience, when making these matchbox holders for earrings, I recommend making the holes askew; do not make the holes parallel with one another.  Should your handmade jewelry creation be the slightest off in length it will be very obvious if you present the earrings with parallel holes.  By punching the holes askew (refer to first/top photo in this post), it gives not only an artistic air to the presentation but aleviates any minor length (or other) discrepancy between the earrings.

Insert the earrings into the punched holes of the insert and hold them up - measure the earring length and mark where to trim the insert, remembering to compensate for the matchbox fold at the base.  Remove earrings and continue.

Note about the earrings:  I created this project/earrings for a neighbor that gives me the nicest hand-me-down clothes for my youngest daughter - Swarovski crystals on sterling chain.  Simple & classic, yet artsy.

Adhere the fold of the matchbox to the insert, and staple all layers in place - use one or two staples, your choice.  Here I've used a tiny attacher and two staples.

Side view.  Note we need to adjust the length of the top matchbox flap.  Do not trim this - score where needed and adhere the flap down - creating a finished edge...

,,,like so.

If the patterned paper used has a directional quality to it, it should be upside down on the front, which will be covered/embellished...

...but correctly viewed from the back.   If you don't have time to embellish the front then either use non-directional patterned or solid paper for the matchbox, or reverse this to suit your needs/timetable.

Or don't be OCD like me...

Embellished front.

Interior.

Gift bag for the matchbox - she will love this presentation.  Bag was folded horizonally, punched with an edger punch then machine stitched to form a pocket.  Flower was made from linen fabric then formed using this tutorial and a slant cut.  Thanks for stopping by today; hope this step-by-step is useful!

how I make post it pads

The post it notepads I make are meant to be used and abused - the inside of my purse is not safe for flimsy.

The covers and bases are reinforced with cardboard (or coasters or chipboard - whatever you have) to give them some extra heft and durability.

I had several emails asking for directions or a tutorial on how I make these from this post; I hope this photo tutorial is helpful.

Patterned papers are from October Afternoon Hometown (retired).  3x3 3M Super Sticky Yellow 3x3 Post its are from staples.com.  Black mini gel pens are from overstock.com.

Between the gel pen and the quality of post it I use one has around $2.20 in product per notepad before you add paper, embellishments, and so forth.  So if doing these for or with your child or grandchild's class and you wish to keep costs down you can simply eliminate the pen, and two of the three 1/2" score increments.  More info regarding that at the end of this post.

Cut 12x12 patterned cardstock (OA cardstock is 65# weight - use this or stronger for a sturdier finished product) into 3-1/4" height strips.  If making a bunch, score first, then cut into 3-1/4" strips.

If incorporating a pen, score at these markings, moving the cardstock after each score mark to the next measurement: 3-1/8", 3-1/4", 1/2, 1/2, 1/2, 3-1/4".

Fold along all score lines, then adhere front and rear flaps as shown above.

Mark 1/2" down from top, and again 1-1/2" down (notice pencil marks in photo above) and cut through the three 1/2" score marks.  This will create the slot for the pen:

Unit will now look like the photo above.

Adhere the 1/2" flaps to one another creating a spine, taking note not to apply adhesive on the slot for the pen.

Cut two 3" square pieces of cardboard (chipboard, coasters - whatever sturdy board you have on hand).  Cut one 4" square of patterned paper for the notepad interior.  Match or contrast - your choice.

Adhere 4" patterned cardstock square to 3" cardboard square, and notch corners of patterned paper as shown above.

Apply adhesive to flaps and neatly fold inward, creating a covered square resembling the photo above.

Adhere second 3" cardboard square to right side of notepad interior, and the covered 3" cardboard square to the notepad left side.

Adhere the 3" square post it notepad to the right side, covering the 3" cardstock square.  This is how the notepad will look with the pen and post it in place.

Finish outside cover as desired.

If you opt to omit the pen, cut patterned cardstock to 12" x 3-1/4" strips, and score at 3-1/8", 3-1/4", 1/2", 3-1/4" (again, if making a bunch, score first, then cut into strips).

Been busy making cute notebooks - will show tomorrow.  Happy Tuesday!

baby on the way

 

Today's post is all about no waste - create two pockets from one sheet of 12x12 and four pull-out portions of the pocket from one sheet of 8-1/2" x 11".  Please read on for the how-to!

A neighbor and friend told me this week she and her husband are expecting her third child - happy times!  See what New Jersey cold and snowed-in weather creates?  hee!

When the baby arrives my friend will have three children under the age of three.......and I only thought I had my hands full!

My friend's congrats card started simply, then evolved into a neat but simple pocket card (click link for template) - it's simple, easy, and you get two pockets out of one sheet of 12x12 double-sided cardstock.

Finished pocket card measures 4-1/2" x 6".  I used a size A6 envelope (4-3/4" x 6-1/2").

Copic marker colors were pulled using colors from one of October Afternoon's newest lines, Ducks in a Row.  Lockhart Stamp Company's Ice Cream and Pickles was stamped onto a Nestabilities long rectangle die cut piece of white cardstock using Memento Tuxedo Black ink, colored with Copics, then matted with black cardstock.  The last mat layer is white cardstock, cut with a Nestabilities long rectangle scallop die that was then run through a Cuttlebug swiss dot embossing folder (see pic below). I popped the black layer using foam dimensionals.

 

The interior pull-out portion of the card is a piece of white cardstock, measuring 4-1/4" x 5-1/2".  The decorative cardstock header measures 4-1/4" x 1-1/4".  Perfect pull-out size as you can get four of these from a sheet of 8-1/2" x 11" cardstock.  No waste and no scraps baybee!  The adorable Lockhart image was stamped (Adirondack Aqua - Ranger); sentiment is from A Muse.  Happy times ahead!

ingredients:  Memory Box cardstocks (Licorice used), Lockhart Stamp Company images, Memento ink pads, complete line of Nestabilities dies, Copic Markers and all related accessories including airbrush equipment - Ellen Hutson; October Afternoon papers - StarlitStudio. white cardstock - Papertrey Ink.

lined envelope tutorial

My latest compulsive activity   is lining envelopes, and I've discovered a few shortcuts that I wanted to share.

 

I use mostly Memory Box envelopes, and Memory Box offers a clear, sturdy template that I've altered a bit to gain speed and save paper when creating the lining.

 

To alter the Memory Box envelope liner template, simply insert it completely into a Memory Box envelope - the bottom of the template will fit snugly against the inside bottom of the envelope.  

Using a ruler, draw a line over the envelope fold - where the flap meets the envelope - and use a black Sharpie marker.  Punch two small holes along the Sharpie line (I used a Cropadile but an anywhere hole punch or other hole punch will work too).

To create a lining, and to conserve paper, line up the template only to the bottom of the word 'box' on the reverse of the desired lining paper- see photo above.  You don't need to use the entire lining template unless you want to.  Using a pencil, trace template on the back of the desired patterned paper. 

 

Don't forget to mark the two punched holes in the template.  Cut out the lining.  I cut two envelope liners out in the photo above.

Using a paper cutter, slice the lining along the marked holes.  Apply adhesive to this side (with the pencil marks) so the pencil marks are concealed.

It is easier to apply adhesive to the lining, versus the envelope.

Adhere the lining to the flap, and the inside envelope front. 

I have found the envelope closes easier with the gap present over the envelope flap fold... it is easier to adhere these two smaller lining pieces to the envelope versus one large liner, and it is easier for the recipient to slit the envelope open this way, too.

ingredients:  Memory Box template and all Memory Box products include decorative papers, cardstocks, stamps and more:  Ellen Hutson

binding rings info

Happy Sunday everyone - today's post is informational.

We received a question from Lyn, and wanted to post the answer here in the hopes it helps you too.

Binding rings:  These are metal rings from 7gypsies that we carry in the store, available in a variety of colors and sizes.  Lyn wanted to know how many pages would fit in each size binding ring. 

To answer Lyn's question we created three mini-albums to see how many pages each size binding ring would hold, to show you their capacity.

The books we constructed consist of two heavyweight rectangle coasters for the outer covers and Papertrey Ink cardstock for the interior pages.  Papertrey cardstock is pretty thick, so if using another cardstock brand that is not as thick you might be able to get a few more interior pages with each size.

7g small binding rings (1-inch diameter - black ones used here) - approx. 25 pages

7g medium binding rings (1-1/2" diameter - red ones used here) - approx. 50 pages

7g large binding rings (1-3/4" diameter - cream ones used here) - approx. 70 pages

Mini albums like these would make great dream journals, and great gifts as journals for several folks on your list.  Use for card and paper crafting ideas, sketch pads, or just to keep in the car with a crayon or two for wee ones' during trips.  Simply cover the front and back with decorative paper and embellish as desired. 

If you feel the binding rings need dressing up, you can add ribbon, or string a few charms - even tie buttons to them!  The only limit is your available time. Best wishes for a great week!

notebook cover

Debbie Olson created an incredible layered soldered piece including tutorial on her blog, and in my amazement (it is incredible!), holding my breath then fainting, I recovered and was determined to try this!!!

I combined one of Debbie's layered creations with an altered notepad for a birthday gift.

Altered 5x8 notepads make awesome gifts (I buy them in bulk at Staples).  One of these with a gift card tucked inside provides a multitude of gift solutions for just about everyone on your list for any occasion.  I've adapted my double notebook closure template to a simplified version here:

5x8 one pocket closure template

I like using double sided cardstock for these notebook covers, but single sided cardstock will work too!

Cut and score a 12" x 8-1/2" piece of patterned cardstock (Tres Jolie used) according to the template.  Then cut a 5" wide x at least 3" to cover the header of the pad and adhere.

Create the pocket and adhere to a 5x8 notepad.   

You can add a pen easily:  elastic, eyelet, eyelet setting tools and E-6000 adhesive (or similar adhesive like Gorilla Glue); mini-pens purchased in bulk at Staples - I covered the pen with cardstock.

Fold elastic piece snugly around pen, punch hole for eyelet.  Remove pen and set eyelet.  Adhere eyelet tails to back of notepad then cover entire notepad back with cardstock.  You can find elastic by the yard at Walmart (fabric section) or craft stores.

To create the cupcakes, stamp Lockhart Best Cupcake once on a piece of 1x3 white cardstock and color all but icing with markers; stamp again on white cardstock scrap, color icing tops and cut out. 

Open up a 1x3 Ranger Memory Frame.  Layer 1x3 colored cardstock unit, then a piece of 1x3 glass.  Using mini Glue Dots adhere colored icing cutouts, then another piece of 1x3 glass.  Insert the whole sandwich into the Memory Frame and close.  Adhere to notebook using pop up Glue Dots or foam adhesive.   Cherry bling is from Ellen's store.

When the notebook is gone the framed piece can be removed and saved.

Thank you for stopping by and hope this template is useful!

sources:  copic markers, Ranger Memory Frames, bling, the entire Lockhart Stamp Company line and exceptional customer service - Ellen Hutson, LLC.

thank shoe

Quick questions: When making cards, do you need:

(1) instant gratification? ...which means stamping and not sitting, thinking about what to create - I want to create something....NOW!
(2) a professional look and feel - my friend Tracie Wolf told me once that "...there is a difference between homemade and handmade." I've never forgotten that.

(3) speed. I really love looking at complicated and uber-fancy cards, but I often don't have the time to spend on them. Let's make them quickly, and make them awesome!

So, if any or all of the above fits you, read on!

The template I am sharing with you today: it uses two different sheets of 6x6 decorative paper to quickly create three cards. So, if you have two different sheets of 12x12 you can create a dozen cards rapidly.

This template will not make scant use of the decorative paper. It is not a conservative template by any means. This template USES it and uses ALL OF IT. No scraps!

Let's get started on this bright and sunny Monday afternoon!

two 6x6 for 3 cards template

This template requires minimal cutting. This saves time.

Also, it is totally up to you and your design where the score line for these cards go - for these cards I created for this tutorial the score line is along the long side of the card, but you could just as easily create them all with the score line along the short side, or mix-em-up!

Step 1. Gather materials. Ribbon, brads - use what embellishments you like/have on hand and that coordinate with the paper you'll be using. Pick two different 6x6 papers and solid cardstock for your card bases. Cut and score solid cardstock and form three A2 card bases (4-1/4" x 5-1/2").

























Step 2: How I made the shoes embellishment:
A. Stamp party shoe image onto cardstock in a dark dye-based ink.

B. Then stamp over it with the Millinery Rose image in a lighter dye-based ink.

C. Use a watercolor brush and water, and color in areas of the party shoe with the darker ink - the Millinery Rose image will vanish in these areas!

D. Cut out Party Shoes.

Step 3: Cut up two - 6x6 papers according to template.

Step 4: Adhere 6" long skinny strip to 6" strip from other paper - as shown in photo. See those two, long, skinny pieces on the left? We're going to put them inside two of the cards in step 6.




















Step 5: Adhere the strip unit onto a card base, and trim...




















...putting the leftover piece inside that card. Stamp and complete card inside.

















Step 6: Place the two really skinny pieces (two pieces: 3" x 3/4") inside the two remaining card bases...

...like this. Stamp and complete card insides. This makes the insides look 'finished' and brings the flavor of the card front into the card inside.




















Place the big, leftover patterned pieces onto the two card bases that remain (see photo below). Your three card fronts will now look like this:

Step 7: Cut two colors of coordinating solid cardstock for focal points on the cards. These cardstock pieces measure 2-3/4" x 2" (flax/green), and 2-7/8" x 2-1/8" (pink). Adhere together, creating a matted focal point.







Step 8: Add ribbon loop and brad to each focal point. Place a foam dimensional on each shoe cutout.

Your card bases will now look like this (note the cute shoe cutouts ready with foam dimensionals, at the photo bottom):



















Step 9: Adhere party shoes and stamp 'thanks' sentiment - done!


















Depending on your time and available embellishments, you can dress these up with more ribbon, buttons, glitter, layers!

Thank you for stopping by and we'll be back tomorrow (that clear card - finally!).

Party Shoe and Millinery Rose (Lockhart Stamp Company), Memory Box cardstock (Cotton Candy, Flax, 6x6 papers from Sprout) - all from Ellen's store. Olive satin ribbon - May Arts; brown brads - the store; thanks sentiment - A Muse; interior thanks sentiment: Verses Rubber Stamps.